Once the plywood was added, we could finally start getting the roof sheathed, and this was a pretty exciting moment because, as soon as this was done, we’d have a dried in building. Also, the Pine plywood matches the Pine rafters, blocking, and fascia, so they will look more consistent, even though they’ll all be painted.Īnyway, we ripped the pieces of plywood to width at the table saw and, because the overhang is 16”, we were able to get three strips out of each piece of plywood, so we only needed two sheets of plywood to sheath this half of the roof soffit area. If we didn’t have this additional layer of ¾” plywood, the roofing nails would have protruded through the underside of the roof sheathing, which would have looked terrible. You might be wondering why we added this layer of plywood, and it’s because again this area will be exposed in the finished house. By doing this, we were able to easily align the top angled edge of the fascia board with the top edge of the rafter, making it easier to attach the fascia.Īfter getting all of the fascia boards attached on the front half of the house, we could add the layer of plywood sheathing to the notched area of the rafters. To help with this, we first squared up one edge of the boards, which matched the look of the rafter tails more closely.Īfter ripping a square edge on one edge of the board, we then tilted the blade to match the roof pitch and ripped the other edge of the board with this angle. Typically, this board would be called the sub fascia, since you’d have some kind of trim on the face of the board and soffit material on the underside, but again we’re going with an exposed rafter tail and soffit.īecause of this, these fascia boards will serve as the finished surface, so we wanted them to look as clean as possible. We repeated this process on any of the other protruding rafter tails, getting the ends of the tails all in line with each other, and then we could move on to adding the fascia. Finally, he could cut the rafter tails using a circular saw, following the line he just marked. Step 4: Attach Rafters To Double Top Platesīefore adding our fascia board to the end of the rafters, we went ahead and snapped a chalk line so we could trim any protruding rafters, since this would cause the fascia board to be wavy.Įrik whipped up a quick jig for marking the vertical line on the rafter tails, where we’d need to cut them, and this jig could then be aligned with the chalk line and Erik could then mark the vertical line using the jig. Since this size restriction won’t be necessary for most people, we actually detailed this differently in the building plans, which are up for sale now in case you’re interested in building a house like this yourself. This also meant we have very little roof overhang in this area, and this was mainly due to the strict footprint size restrictions placed on us by the HOA. Lowering the wall height meant the rafter would meet up with the wall in a different location, and we had to cut the rafters in this area accordingly. We repeated the same process of setting the rafters at the other end of the building, above the guest bedroom, and then we could move to the center section of the building, which was essentially the same except for the slightly different rafters on the back half of the building.Īs you might have noticed during the wall framing video, this back wall is actually about 6 inches shorter than the rest of the exterior walls, and this is to accommodate the cathedral ceiling in this area, where part of the building extends past the rest of the structure. We also got to discuss a few more of the nitty gritty details on the design of the building while he was on site. Rick, our architect, also came by to visit the site and this was his first time seeing the building in person. From there, it was really just rinse and repeat, using that first rafter as a pattern for the rest of the rafters and setting the rafters at a 24” on center spacing.
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